Soba & shimeji

For ➍
200 g soba noodles*
10 cl oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
150 g shimeji mushrooms, base discarded, mushrooms separated
1 tbs soy sauce
2 ts miso paste
salt & pepper
2 tbs finely minced parsley

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Cook the noodles according to package instructions.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a skillet over a low heat. Add the garlic cloves. Saute until fragrant, about 30 s.

Turn up the heat.

Add the shimeji mushrooms. Saute until the mushrooms are soft. Lower the heat. Add 1 tbs of noodles' cooking water, the soy sauce, and the miso paste. Stir until the miso is dissolved well. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Leave the sauce to simmer.

Wash the noodles with cold water to remove the starch. Drain the noodles and add them to the sauce.

Stir well to coat every noodle. Serve with chopped parsley.

*Use spaghetti instead.

The shimeji mushrooms grow on the base of trees. They're very tasty, with a peppery flavor, but should not be served uncooked. They're great in stir-fries, or with fish, scallops or white meat. The pioppini mushroom is the European variety.
Read another shimeji recipe.

Poulet Père Lathuille (Paris sautéed chicken fricassé with artichokes)

For ➏
1 Gâtinais chicken
3 flat parsley sprigs
20 g butter
crust:
300 g (or 3) Agria potatoes
3 globe artichokes
50 cl groundnut oil
30 g clarified butter
garnish:
50 g butter
1 bulb young garlic
1 bundle scallions
25 cl milk
100 g T55 flour

Remove the legs and breasts from the chicken, cut them into small pieces. Make a chicken stock with the carcass. Chop the parsley. In a sauté pan, brown the chicken pieces in butter. Drain, deglaze with a little chicken stock and add the parsley. Set aside.
Wash and peel the potatoes. Prepare the artichokes. Cut the potatoes and artichokes with a mandolin into 3 mm thick slices, and shape into 3 cm-diameter circles with a pastry cutter. Blanch the artichokes in boiling salted water and cool immediately. Brown the potatoes in a deep-fat fryer at 140°C and drain them on a clean cloth.
Line a 18 x 6 cm (copper) mould with overlapping alternate slices of potato and artichoke, and add the chicken pieces.
Fill up the mould with clarified butter and leave to stand for 5 m in the fridge.
Immerse the mould in an oil bath, and leave to cook for 10 m at 180°C until it turns a beautiful blonde colour.
In a pan, confit the garlic gloves in butter. Cut the scallions into 3 mm thick slices with a mandolin.
Plunge the scalllion slices in milk, drain, coat with flour and fry them at 140°C.
Place the chicken dish in the middle of the plate and decorate with scallion rings and garlic cloves. Pour over the chicken stock.

This recipe of chicken with potatoes and artichokes reminds us that Paris and its surroundings were once full of artichokes. It was created in 1765, by a cook named Lathuille, who ran a Parisian guinguette. This establishment, located near the barrier of Clichy, was known for its sautéed chicken, but also for its tripes in the fashion of Caen and a cellar with excellent wines. On March 30, 1814, during the fall of the Empire, Marshal Moncey installed his command post there, in a show of honour against the coalition armies. Père Lathuille distributed all his provisions and bottles to the French soldiers, so that the enemy could not take them. This 'patriotic' act contributed to the success of his restaurant once peace returned. In 1906, the guinguette became a café-concert. These days, number 7 avenue de Clichy, the former grande rue des Batignolles, houses a movie theatre, le Cinéma des Cinéastes.
Use the easier variation recipe with mushrooms.

Poulet Père Lathuille (quick Paris sautéed chicken fricassé)

For ➍-➏
500 g firm potatoes
2 tbs peanut oil
4 chicken legs (drumstick and thighs)
20 g butter
1 dl of chicken stock
250 g white Paris mushrooms*
3 sprigs flat parsley
salt & pepper

Pre-heat the oven at 210°C.
Peel the potatoes, rinse them and cut them in thin slices.
Oil the bottom and sides of a 24 cm pan, and fill it with potatoes in several layers, salting between layers.
Slip in the oven and cook for about 30 m, until the potatoes are golden brown.
Remove the skin from the chicken legs and cut the flesh into large cubes.
Cook the mushrooms cut in 2 or 4, in the sauté pan and set aside.
Brown the chicken pieces in a frying pan, in butter, salt and pepper.
put aside. Pour the stock in the pan and deglaze the cooking juices.
Put the chicken pieces in the pan again and add the parsley by stripping.
Let simmer for 10 m.
When the potatoes are golden brown, add the chicken and mushrooms to the pan.
Turn over on a plate and serve hot.

*Or use artichokes as in the original recipe.

This is a quick and easy version of a classic Paris dish.
The original recipe of chicken with potatoes and artichokes reminds us that Paris and its surroundings were once full of artichokes. It remains attached to a Parisian guinguette, created in 1765. This establishment, located near the barrier of Clichy, outside the city walls, was known for its sautéed chicken, but also for its tripes in the fashion of Caen and a cellar with excellent wines. On March 30, 1814, during the fall of the Empire, Marshal Moncey installed his command post there, in a show of honour against the coalition armies. Père Lathuille distributed all his provisions and bottles to the French soldiers, so that the enemy could not take them. This "patriotic" act will contribute to the success of his restaurant once peace returns. In 1906, the guinguette became a café-concert. These days, number 7 avenue de Clichy (the former grande rue des Batignolles, houses a movie theatre, le Cinéma des Cinéastes.
Manet painted the guingette in 1880./blockquote>

Pure de calabacin (Spanish zucchini soup)

For ➍
3-4 medium zucchini, peeled & cubed
1 medium onion, chopped
2 carrots, cubed (small)
3-4 sprigs flat leaf parsley, chopped
5 tbs olive oil
2 eggs
2 tbs grated Parmigiano cheese
50 cl beef or chicken (or vegetable) broth
salt

Heat olive oil in a 30 cm frying pan on medium heat. Add onion and sauté until it becomes translucent, then turns golden in color. Add the carrot cubes and half the parsley, and stir, continuing to cook in pan. Add the zucchini and continue to sauté for 3-4 m.

Pour the broth over the vegetables and simmer for about 5 m, or until the zucchini is cooked. Remove pan from heat and allow to cool for 2-3 m. Beat the eggs.

Process the vegetable mixture with a food processor or stick blender until smooth. Pour mixture back into the pan, with heat on low, and slowly stir in the beaten eggs. Salt to taste.

When serving, sprinkle the rest of the chopped parsley and grated cheese.
*variations:
potatoes: peel and cut two potatoes into small squares. Place in a medium sauce pan, just cover with water and boil until just cooked. Drain and process potatoes with other vegetables.
garlic: peel and finely chop 2 garlic cloves, and saute with the other vegetables.
quesitos: add 4 small quesitos (little cheeses) to the mixture in the food processor. Be sure that they are at room temperature. In Spain, quesitos refers to the soft bland cheeses that come in individual servings, such as Vache qui rit or Babybel brands.
Serrano ham & croutons: cut Serrano ham (use prosciutto if Serrano ham is not available) into small bits, and sprinkle on top of each serving with some croutons.

Yokohama doria (Japanese shrimp & rice gratin)

For ➋
½ tbs butter
½ small onion, thinly sliced
4 white mushrooms, thinly sliced
8 - 10 medium shrimp, peeled & deveined
300 g steamed rice*
½ tbs butter
sauce**:
2 tbs butter
2 tbs flour
20 cl milk
½ ts salt
½ ts consomme powder
topping:
2 tbs grated Parmigiano cheese (optional)

Melt 2 tbs of butter in a sauce pan on low heat. Put 2 tbs of flour in the butter. Cook it, stirring well. When it bubbles, pour in milk. Constantly stir the sauce, using a whisk. Season with salt and consomme powder. Cook it until thickened. Set aside.
Melt ½ tbs of butter in a skillet. Saute onion on low heat until softened. Add mushrooms and shrimp and stir-fry until cooked. Pour in white sauce and mix with the ingredients. Preheat oven to 220°C. Warm up rice in the microwave if it's cold.
Melt ½ tbs of butter in the rice and stir lightly. Place the rice in baking dishes. Pour shrimp in cream sauce over the rice. Sprinkle Parmigiano cheese over the sauce. Bake in the oven for 10 -15 m until lightly browned.
Serve.

*Read the tip on steamed rice.
**Read the tip on a quick white sauce.

Doria was created by a Swiss chef in 1927 at the Yokohama New Grand Hotel, catering to Europeans. It was a variant of a Parisian Italian style dish. In Japanese doria, cooked rice is topped with sauteed ingredients, such as chicken or seafood in white sauce.
Postcard of blooming cherry trees in 1912 at Yokohama harbour.

Prawns & artichokes

For ➍
1 tbs olive oil
500 g large shrimp, peeled & deveined
1½ tbs dried red pepper flakes
2 garlic cloves, minced
400 g diced tomatoes
2 tbs chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 ts paprika
½ ts salt
1 can (400 g) quartered artichoke hearts, drained

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.
Add shrimps, pepper flakes, and garlic. Sauté 3 m.
Add remaining ingredients. Cook 3 m, stirring frequently, or until shrimp are done and mixture is thoroughly heated.

Shiitakes with lime & soy sauce

For ➍
100 g shiitakes, shredded or sliced
1 lime (juice & scrubbed peel, shredded)
2 cl soy sauce
10 g sesame seeds
4 toasts

Sauté the shiitakes in a little bit of butter for 4-5 m.*
When ready, add the lime juice and the shredded peel. Add soy sauce and sesame seeds.
Serve with fresh toast.

*Or you can brush them with olive oil and grill them for 5-10 m.

Spicy prawns & spinach @ wok

For ➋
250 g large prawns, raw, peeled, patted dry
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
½ ts garam masala
½ ts salt
½ ts coriander
½ ts tumeric
pinch chili (to taste)
pinch ginger (to taste)
1 tbs tomato puree
225 g fresh spinach
olive oil

Heat up 1 tbs of olive oil in a wok (or large frying pan).

Saute the onion and garlic until soft and fragrant.

Turn the heat up and add all the spices except the salt. Cook for about 4 m to release all their flavours.

Add the tomato puree, stir around, cook for 1 m more, then add the prawns.

When they turn pink (or, if they are already cooked, just heat them through), add some salt and then the spinach, stirring it swiftly in the pan until it just starts to wilt.

Taste for seasoning. Serve as such or with buttered rice.

A slightly Indian flavoured dish. Read a similar recipe, with fresh peppers. When using frozen prawns, read cooking tips: fish & seafood @ microwave. Read more tips.

Preistoemp met kabeljauw (leek mash with baked cod)

For ➍
4 pieces cod fillet
100 g shrimps* (optional)
mash:
4 stalks leek
1 kg potatoes (f.i. Bintje)
1 25 cl bottle white beer
1 large onion
a few bay leaves
few sprigs fresh thyme
sauce:
150 g fresh butter, ice-cold
pepper & salt
1 shallot
1 25 cl bottle white beer
a dash of cream
juice of ½ lemon

Peel the potatoes. Boil them in salted water.
Cut the onion. Saute in a covered pot with a knob of butter, without browning.
Cut the leek stalks into small pieces. Add to the pot with onions.
Make a bouquet garni: tie some bay leaves and some thyme sprigs together with kitchen twine. Add to the onion and leek mix.
Pour 25 cl beer in the pot. Let it simmer for 15 m on low heat.
Remove the bouquet garni from the pot with braised leeks. Drain the cooked potatoes and stir in vegetable mixture. Respect a mixture of ⅔ vegetables and ⅓ potatoes for a smooth mash. Add pepper and salt.
Meanwhile prepare a beurre blanc butter sauce**. Chop the shallot finely. Place a small saucepan over a medium heat. Cover the bottom with white beer. Add the shallot and a dash of lemon juice. Let the beer boil briefly.
Cut the refrigerator cold butter cut into cubes. Add a dash of cream to the pan and let the sauce reduce until ⅓ of the volume. Pour the sauce through a sieve been cooked so that the shallot pieces can be removed. Add them to the pot with leeks. Over low heat, whisk the sauce, gradually add the cold butter lumps. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.
Preheat the oven to 150°C. Melt a knob of butter in an ovenproof pan over medium heat. Season the fish with some pepper and a pinch of salt. Fry the pieces of cod on both sides, so they get a golden crust.
Spoon a little bit of the drippings over the fish. When the fish is colored, put the pan in the preheated oven.
Let the cod cook for 7 m. Spoon some dripping between the pieces.
Serve each piece of cod with a portion of mash. Spoon some of the butter sauce over. white beer.
Add a serving of hand-peeled shrimps.*

*Optional.

**Or make a simple melted butter sauce with shallot and butter.

Try a leek mash with salmon and shrimps.

Tomato & basil cream sauce for ravioli

For ➍
3 large fresh tomatoes
½ small onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbs butter
4 tbs Parmigiano
2 ts basil flakes
½ ts oregano
1¼ tbs cream
slivered almonds
salt & pepper

Boil the tomatoes for 4-5 m or until tender. Chop the onions. Saute them in some oil till they look pinkish and glazed. Add the minced garlic and saute for 1 m.

Blend the tomatoes, onions and garlic mixture to form a smooth paste.

Add some butter to a heated pan. Add the sauce and let it boil on medium heat. Add the basil and oregano, salt and pepper, and let it simmer.

Whisk the cream and the Parmigiano cheese in a separate bowl into a thick mixture. Reduce the flame to low. Add this mixture to the tomato sauce.

(Meanwhile, cook the cheese ravioli.)

Layer the cooked ravioli in a dish. Top it with the sauce. Garnish with some more Parmigiano cheese, slivered almonds and basil flakes.

Asuparagasu no bēkon (Japanese asparagus bacon roll)

For ➍ (4 bites per person)
8 slices bacon
16 fresh (green) asparagus (or thawed)*
1 tbs soy sauce
1 tbs vegetable oil

Wash asparagus and boil lightly. Cut them in thirds.

Cut bacon slices in half. Place 3 pieces of asparagus on a bacon piece and roll the bacon around the asparagus. Secure the roll with a toothpick. Repeat the process to make more rolls.

Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan. Saute bacon rolls in the pan on medium heat. Put a lid on the frying pan and steam-cook for 1 m. Pour soy sauce over the rolls and stop the heat.

Asparagus bacon rolls are popular bites in Japanese izakaya bars. It makes a great appetizer. It is also suitable for bento lunch boxes.
An izakaya is a Japanese drinking establishment which also serves food to accompany the drinks. The food is usually more substantial than that offered in other types of drinking establishments. The name stems from 'i' (to sit) and 'sakaya' (sake shop), a sake shop which allowed customers to sit. Sometimes they are called 'akachōchin' (red lantern) in daily conversation, after the lanterns traditionally found in front of an izakaya.
The variation with enoki mushrooms, baked in the oven, has become a Western favourite.
Try another izakaya favourite, kara-age chicken.
Read microwave or steaming tip on cooking asparagus.

Risotto with roasted pumpkin

For ➋
500 g pumpkin (or butternut squash)
2 tbs olive oil
salt & pepper
½ onion, diced
150 g Arborio rice
pinch saffron (optional)
10 cl white wine
60 cl chicken (or vegetable) stock
2 tbs butter
50 g Parmigiano, freshly grated

Preheat oven to 200°C.
Peel the pumpkin, halve it and remove seeds. Cut into 2,5 cm cubes. Place squash in roasting dish, toss with 1 tbs olive oil, 1 ts salt and ½ ts pepper. Roast until tender and golden in spots, about 25 m. Toss once to ensure even roasting.
Meanwhile, heat the chicken stock in a small covered saucepan. Leave it on low heat to simmer.
In saucepan, heat 1 tbs olive oil, add diced onion and saute until translucent.
Add rice to onion and oil mixture and stir until the grains are coated. Add the wine and let it reduce slightly. Add 20 cl of stock, along with the saffron. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the stock is absorbed, 10 m. When the stock is almost gone, add some more. Repeat the process.
When the liquid is absorbed, remove pot from heat, stir in butter and cheese. Toss in roasted squash. Add salt and fresh pepper to taste.

Read the tip on making a quick risotto.

Oven-baked egg

For ➊
1 egg
1 slice smoked salmon, chopped
chopped parsley & chives
salt & freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 220°C. Butter a small, shallow ovenproof dish and scatter the smoked salmon* over the bottom. Add the chopped parsley and chives. Break an egg over the top and season with salt and pepper.
Bake until the egg white is set but the yolk still runny, approximately 5 m. **
Serve with crusty bread.

*Replace by 1 slice of ham, chopped.
*Replace by a handful of mushrooms, sauteed. Or minced into a rough puree.
**Alternatively, put in microwave oven for 50 s.
***Alternatively, omit the filling, add a tbs of cream on top of the eggs, and cook for 10 m in a bain-marie in a moderately heated oven.

tip: cooking frozen fish

Always rinse seafood under cold water to remove any ice glaze. Pat dry with paper towel
Brush both sides of fish with high oleic vegetable oils: olive, canola, peanut, grapeseed, soy or safflower. Avoid butter, sunflower or corn oil as they will burn at high heat.

Sauté/ pan-searing
Heat a heavy nonstick skillet or ridged stovetop grill pan over medium-high heat.
Place fish in heated pan, skin side up, and cook, uncovered, 3 to 4 m, until browned.
Turn the fish over and season it with your favorite seafood seasoning.
Cover the skillet tightly and reduce the heat to medium;
Continue to cook an additional 6 to 8 m.
Finish thick portions in an oven preheated to 200°C (use an ovenproof pan).
Remove from heat just as soon as seafood is opaque throughout.

Roasting
Preheat oven to medium-high heat (230°C).
Place seafood on spray-coated pan or foil-lined baking sheet
Cook 12 to 15 m. Flip only very thick portions.
For best results with frozen fish, cook 4 m before seasoning with butter or spices.
Remove from heat just as soon as seafood is opaque throughout.

Broiling
Preheat broiler to medium-high heat (230°C)
Place seafood on spray-coated broiling pan or foil-lined baking sheet.
Cook 12 to 15 m.
For best results with frozen fish, cook 4 m before seasoning with butter or spices.
Flip only very thick portions.
Remove from heat just as soon as seafood is opaque throughout.

Grilling
Heat grill to 200°C.
Tear an 45 cm wide sheet of foil so it is 10 cm longer than the seafood.
Spray-coat the dull side of foil and place seafood on foil, skin side down
Brush both sides of fish with high oleic vegetable oils: olive, canola, peanut, grapeseed, soy or safflower. Avoid butter, sunflower or corn oil as they will burn at high heat.
Bring sides of foil together and fold over several times to seal. Roll up ends to form a packet.
Place packet on grill, seam side down, and cook for 8 to 10 m.
Remove packet from grill. Open and add seasoning.
Crimp foil loosely to close and return packet to grill, seam side up.
Cook an additional 8 to 10 m.
Remove from heat just as soon as seafood is opaque throughout.

Poaching
Add water/court bouillon to a large pan and simmer.
Turn off the heat and add seafood to liquid, skin side down.
Return heat to a simmer. Liquid should simmer, not boil.
Once simmering, cover pan tightly and cook 4 to 5 m.
Turn off the heat and let the seafood rest 5 minutesRemove from heat just as soon as seafood is opaque throughout.

Steaming
Bring about 2.5 cm of water/seasoned liquid to a boil.
Line the steamer with lettuce, onion, herbs or citrus (without covering all the holes) to keep seafood from sticking.
Add seafood to steamer and cover loosely.
Return liquid to a boil and steam 5 to 7 m.
Remove from heat just as soon as seafood is opaque throughout